How
to Silkscreen Print Textiles
Section
B – What is Screen Printing
Simply put, Screen Printing is a printing process whereby ink is forced
through a stencil, which is supported by a mesh (or screen), directly
onto the object or area to be imprinted. Originally the mesh material
was silk, hence the term ‘Silkscreen printing’.
The number of threads per inch of the mesh is called the ‘thread
count’. Higher numbers indicate that the mesh is more densely
woven. Higher counts produce more detail, but at a price: less ink is
deposited on the printed piece. Thus, the printer must balance ink density
requirements against detail requirements. Screen printing is a balancing
act – the printer must find a screen mesh that reproduces the
substantial majority of the design’s detail while still depositing
enough ink for a clear, dense image. For printing on textiles such as
T-shirts, a good starting point is a 110 mesh screen. Printing process
color designs on shirts will probably require a mesh count in the 200
to 300 range.
To screen print, one must first have the ‘artwork’ to be
reproduced. This artwork is modified to make it work with the screen
printing process, and then stencils are made of the various colors in
the design, one stencil per color. Stencils for ‘underlays’
may also be made, but are not always required. Underlays are helpful
at making the printing crisp, or at printing light inks over dark shirts.
Underlays are printed first (when used) and the other inks are deposited
on top of the underlay. Think of printing underlays as being the same
as priming wood before painting it. White ink is most often used as
the underlay.
The stencils are either made on ‘capilary film’ which is
then applied to the screen, or they are made by coating the screen to
be used with ‘emulsion’. Emulsion is a light-sensitive liquid
that is applied to the screen and allowed to dry. Now the screen is
‘burned’, meaning the artwork is placed over the screen
and a bright light is used to ‘expose’ the screen.
Wherever the light hits the emulsion, the emulsion hardens and becomes
resistant to water. Where the design is black, no light reaches the
emulsion, and it does not harden.
The burned (or exposed) screen is next ‘washed out’ with
a high pressure spray of water. Once dry again, the screen is ready
to use.
The screen is mounted into the press and positioned such that the design
will be in the desired area when a shirt is placed on the press ‘platen’.
Ink is placed on the screen, behind the image in the screen. Test sheets
called ‘pelons’ are used to check the print position and
quality – the pelons are placed on the platen, and a ‘squeegee’
is used to move the ink across the design under pressure. This pressure
forces ink through the openings in the emulsion or film, and the object
(shirt or pelon) is printed.
Textile inks vary by manufacturer, but generally they ‘cure’
or fully harden at around 320 to 350 degrees farenheit. Textile inks
are known generically as ‘Plastisol’ inks, and represent
a substantial improvement over the textile inks of just a few years
ago. Plastisol inks are completely permanent once they are fully (read:
correctly) cured. Anyone over 30 years old will remember having your
favorite shirt ruined by repeated washings: the design came out, or
big chunks of it did, anyway. Plastisol eliminates this problem (again,
only if fully, properly cured!) by actually bonding to the fibers of
the shirt. This is a chemical reaction that takes place when the correct
temperature is reached, so it is very durable and consistent. Garments
printed with plastisol will frequently wear out long before the design
deteriorates!
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